Trailblazing New Heights: Pioneering a New Route on Spantik
In early June 2023, something remarkable happened in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. French alpinist Mathieu Maynadier partnered with local climber Muizzuddinn to pioneer a new route up Spantik, also known as Golden Peak. This ascent marked a significant achievement for mountain climbing in Pakistan, being the first major route opening led by a local climber.
Their expedition from June 2 to 7 resulted in the creation of an impressive 1,800-meter route named “Zindabad,” which translates to "long live." The route is graded M5 A1 with an 80° incline, making it one of the season’s most noteworthy challenges.
The duo spent 20 days acclimatizing at base camp, weathering 10 days of poor conditions before establishing camps at altitudes of 5,200 meters and 5,800 meters. When the weather finally cleared, they faced the unpredictable elements of fresh snow and unstable wind slabs over five grueling days. Just shy of the summit, they had to make the tough decision to turn back due to a dangerous wind slab. However, the completion of their route stands as a monumental symbol of national pride and resilience.
Their descent took a staggering 36 hours via the standard route, including a bivouac at 5,800 meters. For Muizz, this climb isn’t just a personal accomplishment; it’s the first step toward an ambitious greater goal: becoming Pakistan’s first UIAGM-certified mountain guide. He plans to train in France this summer, aiming to help foster local guiding programs and bring more attention to the remarkable climbing potential in Pakistan.
Spantik has a notable history in the climbing world, especially with the renowned 2000 French-Slovenian ascent of its north face, known as the “Golden Pillar.” Maynadier is no stranger to the region; he’s an advocate for Pakistani alpinism and has successfully completed several first ascents and ski descents in this stunning landscape.
The tale of Maynadier and Muizzuddinn’s climb not only highlights extraordinary feats of human endurance and teamwork but also sheds light on the rich climbing culture blossoming in Pakistan. As interest in the region grows, it’s becoming clear that there’s so much more to explore and experience.
If you share a love for adventure and the mountains—whether you’re an aspiring climber or just curious about these stunning landscapes—there are avenues to connect with like-minded enthusiasts. For those interested in learning more about climbing and outdoor adventures, consider exploring resources at Pro21st. Together, let’s embrace the adventure!
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